邂逅咖啡,与采摘者的相遇(1)

邂逅咖啡,与采摘者的相遇(1)

2020-02-28    06'47''

主播: CafeCuore_Elaine

251 1

介绍:
Before embarking on this project, I met with Dion Cohen and Wendy De Jong from Single Origin Roasters based in Surry Hills, Sydney. At the end of our lunch, Wendy turned to me and said,“Just please whatever you do, don’t do what everyone else does.. Don't ignore the pickers...please tell their story and tell it honestly." At the time I don't think l fully comprehended the significance of this comment. In fact, my ignorance may have even made me dismissive. Upon arriving in Guatemala four months later, I understood what Wendy was trying to tell me. I don't know if I, or anyone else could do this chapter justice, which was perhaps Wendy's point. It is difficult at the best of times to accurately articulate your personal experience for another to understand it and engage in it. As writers, this is what we try to do on a daily basis. It was this experience in Guatemala that led me to write this chapter. 在着手这个项目前,我先见到了Dion Cohen和Wendy De Jong,他们的Single Origin Roasters(单一产地咖啡)位于悉尼的Surry Hills。午餐快结束时,Wendy转身对我说:“请你无论做什么,都不要像其他人那样。不要忽视采摘者……请讲述他们的故事,并且请如实讲述。”我当时并没有完全理解这句话的意义,事实上由于我的无知,这句话甚至根本没有引起我的重视。直到我4个月后到达危地马拉,才真正明白Wendy当时试图告诉我什么。我不知道自己或者别人是否能够妥当地完成这一章的内容,可能这正是Wendy那句话的意思。即使在最理想的情形下,你也很难把私人的体验准确地描述给另一个人,让他不仅理解而且感同身受。而作为写作者,这是我们每天都在试图做的事情。正是在危地马拉的这段经历让我写下了这一章。 I feel at this point I should insert the disclaimer. It is not my intention to incite guilt in anyone or over dramatize a story for the sake of controversy. This recount is as accurate as my memory allows and as objective as my conscience permits. This is a first-hand account of the life of this particular picker and may not represent the greater community, however, I fear that this story is one pulled out of a net full to the brim of others just like it. 我觉得应该在此处插入一份免责声明。我并无意煽动任何人的罪恶感,或者为了引起争议而把故事过分戏剧化。这份记述如实地纪录了我的记忆,而在我的良心容许的范围内尽可能准确。这是一个特定的采摘者生活的第一手资料,可能并不能代表更大的社区,然而我恐怕这只是许许多多类似故事的一个缩影。 When we first arrived at the beautiful Finca La Folie, in downtown Antigua we were greeted by Byron, the farm manager. Byron walked us down a dirt path, which divided acres and acres of coffee trees. As we walked, Byron told us of the farm history and invited us to watch the picking process. It was a gorgeously sunny afternoon and the farm had an incredibly calming presence about it. It rested at the foothill of Mount Hato and was completely removed from the hustle and bustle of downtown Antigua. 我们一到达美丽的安提瓜市中心的Finca La Folie,就受到了农场经理拜伦(Byron)的欢迎。拜伦带我们走了一条土路,这条路将大片的咖啡树林一分为二。我们一边走,拜伦一边给我们讲农场的历史,并邀请我们观看采摘过程。那是一个阳光明媚的午后,农场显得格外宁静。它坐落在哈托山脚下,完全远离了安提瓜市区的喧嚣。 As we walked past row after row of coffee trees, I had the unnerving feeling we were being followed, the sensation that somewhere within the dense growth there were eyes observing our every move. Eventually I stopped, crouched and peered through the trees. I caught the vision of four big brown eyes staring back at me, partially hidden by the foliage. Despite my beckoning the children refused to come to the road and leave the protection of the fauna that surrounded them. I began taking photos of them, flicking the flash up and down. Eventually their curiosity got the better of them and they stepped closer and closer until they were in full sight on the side of the dirt road. 当我们走过一排又一排的咖啡树时,我产生了一种不安的感觉,仿佛有人在跟踪我们,在浓密的树丛中,似乎有眼睛在注视着我们的一举一动。最后我停了下来,蹲下身子往树林里看,发现有四只棕色的大眼睛正在盯着我,部分被树叶遮住了。我向他们招手,但孩子们还是不愿离开周围动物的保护走到路上来。我开始给他们拍照,闪光灯上上下下地闪烁着。最终他们的好奇心占了上风,他们越走越近,直到来到土路边,完全展露在我的视野里。 They were two small Guatemalan children, one boy and one girl. They were beautiful looking kids, even when covered in dirt from head to toe. As they became more comfortable they started fighting for premium position in front of the camera and were more than happy to entertain my full attention. Before long a woman's voice came calling from the trees,“Mario, Melanie, Mario, Melanie!" The children stopped as their ears followed the calls, looking back into the trees. I stood up slowly so as not to startle the voice and to direct her to where the children were. I saw a woman standing there in between rows of coffee trees. She looked of middle age, was wearing traditional Guatemalan attire and was also covered in dirt head to toe. She greeted me with a smile stretched from ear to ear," Hola, Buenos dias, como estas?"She was a person that you immediately felt comfortable with; she had a reassuring presence and a warmth that emanated off her. I had experienced pickers in Brazil, Panama and Mexico prior to this visit but never was I greeted with such a welcome. 这是两个危地马拉的小孩,一男一女。两个孩子长得很漂亮,即便从头到脚都是泥土。熟悉了之后,他们开始在镜头前争夺有利位置,非常乐意去吸引我的全部注意力。不久,一个女人的声音从树林里传来:“马里奥,梅兰妮,马里奥,梅兰妮!”。孩子们听到叫声,停了下来,回头望向树林。我慢慢站了起来,以免惊动那个声音,也向她示意孩子们在这里。我看见一个女人站在成排的咖啡树中间。她看起来人到中年,穿着危地马拉的传统服装,同样从头到脚都是泥土。她向我打招呼,笑得合不拢嘴。“嗨,你好!你好吗?”(西班牙语)她是一个一见面就能立刻让你感到舒服的人; 她是一个令人感到安心的存在,散发着温暖。在此之前,我在巴西、巴拿马和墨西哥都遇到过采摘者,但从未受到过如此热烈的欢迎。 She walked towards us and introduced herself as Ana Maria Marroquin; she then introduced the children as Mario and Melanie. We spoke briefly, we took some more photos of her and her family and we continued on our trek through the farm. Throughout the day we met more pickers and witnessed the weighing process, however, Ana Maria and the children were never far from my thoughts. 她向我们走来,介绍自己叫安娜·玛丽亚·马里奥基,然后她介绍孩子们分别叫马里奥和梅兰妮。我们简短地交谈了一下,又拍了一些她和她家人的照片,然后继续我们的农场之旅。在这一天里我们遇到了更多的采摘者,目睹了称重的过程,然而安娜玛丽亚和那些孩子们却从未远离我的思绪。 The following morning we were scheduled to head to another farm in Guatemala but instead, we decided to head back to Finca La Folie and see if we could not find Ana Maria once more. We arrived at around 2:00pm, however, this time we were left to our own devices with only the guidance of another picker. As we walked down the same dirt road that we had done twenty-four hours prior, our guide told us of how the pickers would wake up every morning, walk an hour to the farm, work a full day, weigh the days pickings and then journey an hour back up Mount Hato where they lived in their own community. We had only walked a few hundred meters before Mario and Melanie came dashing out of the trees running straight towards us. 第二天早上,我们原计划前往危地马拉的另一个农场,但临时决定改变计划返回Finca La Folie,看看能否再次找到安娜·玛丽亚(Ana Maria)。我们在下午2点左右到达,而这一次我们只能依靠自己的设备并且只有另一个采摘者作为向导。当我们走在24小时前走过的那条土路上时,向导告诉我们,那些采摘工人每天早上醒来后要步行一小时到农场,工作一整天,称量每天的采摘量,然后步行一小时回到他们的家园所在的哈托山。我们才刚走了几百米,就看见马里奥和梅兰妮冲出树林,径直向我们跑来。